Malate has aged since the first time I fell in love with it. And, as with those who try to hide the stains of years, the place has been glossed over – bright lights, tall edifices, and higher prices to make up for higher rent. It feels different. The people are more distant. It is less my home. When the relocated Oarhouse opened again late last year, I was wary of what I'd find. Nothing is immune to change after all.

I went on its second week. I didn’t want to be caught in the surge of people reminiscing of old Malate and good ‘ol Oarhouse. I sat at the end of the bar, as usual; and looked for Wilson, the bartender I knew from before. There were a handful of women attendants instead. Wilson had moved on, unable to wait for the bar’s reopening.

It took Ben Razon, renowned photographer and Oarhouse’s new owner, almost half a year to find something suitable for Oarhouse. “It took a while for me to find another place… especially in Malate. The rental of commercial places here is so high now because of all these Korean KTVs…. It was just very very difficult. And I wanted a bigger space for it because the only way I can see Oarhouse flourishing again is to have it in a much bigger place, able to accommodate a lot more people.”

For staff relying on their bar job as their bread and butter, half a year was a long wait. It was a long wait for me too. When Penguin Café (then at Remedios St.) and Oarhouse (then along Mabini) closed almost simultaneously, it felt like I lost my Malate. Even when their owners assured us that they will open up again, we knew it just wouldn’t be the same.

Good ‘Ol Oarhouse
Oarhouse has changed. The lights are brighter; there is more space to move about. Instead of framed photographs, play and movie posters decorate the wall. A huge white space takes over where exhibits used to be.

“I do plan to get the exhibits back... try to get a schedule of exhibits, whether photography or art, to run for two to three weeks at the most. I'll try to keep it going. It may not be on a continuous schedule because I'm trying to be selective about the material,“ says Ben.

True enough, a few weeks later, I find myself back at the bar for Edd Aragon’s UV painting exhibit. Oarhouse’s loft is decked with the blue and white hues of music legends. Live music played in the background. The first level was packed. Alcohol, food and laughter poured. (And surprise surprise, Wilson was back too!)

From the Ground Up
The new Oarhouse used to be a Korean restaurant. Before that, it was a Chinese teahouse.

According to Ben, “I had to rebuild the place from the ground up. This was just an empty space as far as everything was concerned. I had to lay out the bar… the dining area, where it’s all gonna be, the tables and the kitchen."

“After about three or four months, it’s found its own level of patronage. The old regulars and former patrons have come back. Aside from that, there’s a new set of clientele coming in because it’s now in a more people-friendly area. It’s more about the people who live, work and study here. New faces are coming in.”

Yes, Oarhouse seems to have been given new life. That’s precious in a Malate that teeters between the glossy and the cheap. There are no beer buckets or overpriced appetizers in Oarhouse – just good satisfying food, and cocktails and beers as you like it.

In Malate, On Malate
“It’s a little sad because we’re being overwhelmed by these KTVs. I make no bones about how much I really really detest these kinds of places. It’s really disruptive and destroys the sense of community that Malate used to have. Malate used to have a good set of restaurants and bars that you can actually go to – good food and drinks that are reasonably priced… (Today) it’s the age of prostitution… It’s all catering to this mentality... It’s become cheap. It’s a very depressing scene.”

Perhaps testament to what Ben claims, many Malate favorites have moved out. Penguin and Sala (Colin Mackay’s fine dining restaurant which used to be in Nakpil) are now in Makati; and Hobbit House is now in Ermita. The few that remain include Blue Room, Bed and the Library. Oarhouse is the sole authentic bar left.

“That’s one of the reasons why I wanted to keep the Oarhouse running… because it’s really not a joke that Malate used to be a good place. It’s sad that places like Penguin and the Hobbit House... they’ve all left…. I’m hoping it’s just a cycle for now. “

Patrons like me can only hope for the best. Actually, I’m just glad that Oarhouse is back, and in Malate despite everything.

“It will never leave Malate.… This is where the soul of it, the character of it, really belongs.… For as long as I am its steward, I will not compromise on changing its character, atmosphere, and main mission as a true community pub; and the collective contribution and vision that its regulars and patrons have given - and will continue to give to it.”

Roda Novenario is Yapak Travel's Aliping Sagigilid :)

Photos used with permission from Ben Razon.