Dear my beloved Batanes,
I love thee with all my heart, with my insatiable yearning for wonder and lust for wander. I am sending you some photos from our first encounter with the silent prayer that you may never forget me. May you see your splendor through my eyes, so you will know that I love thee…
1. Because you are a safe place for my adventurous heart and a sweet escape to my wandering feet
You allowed me to fulfill my dream of traveling solo without my parents alarming the whole town or having my photo appear on the back of a milk carton (or worse, go viral on the walls of FB). You boast of having the lowest crime rate in the country, a negligible 0.007. It does not come as a surprise that your prison cells are museums of dust and cobwebs.
2. Because you are a haven for shutterbugs and camwhores
Your mountains and rolling hills are great for jumpology. Every angle is postcard-worthy. Every sight is photo op material. You offer 360 degrees of purely majestic beauty. And did I mentioned you provide a scenic background for jumpology?
3. Because of your unadulterated, uncommercialized, countryside landscape
You are like one huge stage for The Sound of Music. Mt. Iraya provides a picturesque backdrop to the lush green panorama of Batan. Your fresh air and cold wind, ravines, hills, sea, waves, sand, reefs, mountains, hedgerows, grazing cows and goats, and even mud-bathing carabaos — such raw beauty.
4. Because a rendezvous with you feels like a visit to multiple places all in one stop
Truly, you are a travel destination like no other. Through your eyes, one is able to “see” several places: rolling hills (Scotland or New Zealand), grazing cows in the pasture lands (New Zealand), wind turbines (California or Ilocos), boulder beach (New Zealand or Georgian Bay in Ontario, Canada), lighthouses (USA, France, England or Tiritiri Matangi Island in New Zealand), infinity pool at the Fountain of Youth (famous resorts of Bali, Mexico or Thailand), and stone houses (China or Brittany, France.) With you, I do not need to leave my homeland and break the bank to witness such spectacles. Even your mouth-watering tatus (coconut crab) can rival the delicacies of other South East Asian or Pacific Island countries, or even Zamboanga’s delectable curacha (spanner crab). The mark you left in my heart greatly compensates for the absence of a new stamp on my passport. Who needs an immigration seal when you have got all these beauty in one place in our very own backyard?
5. Because of the many adventures you offer
I could have top-loaded on a jeep en route the zigzag roads of Benguet, trekked the steep descents and ascents of Batad, reef-walked in the waters of Boracay, taken a boat ride and island hopped in Palawan; but you, my dear Batanes, allowed me to do all these and more. Do you remember how the wind blew my hair on that motorcycle ride through the winding road cliff to Ivana Port and back? How I braved the big waves of the channel where the Pacific Ocean kisses the South China Sea in that falowa (Ivatan U-shaped boat) ride? How, after getting seasick from the boat ride, I still managed to top load on a jeep while sightseeing in Sabtang Island? How I enthusiastically trekked the rocky and hilly road to the Fountain of Youth and leisurely reef-walked on my way back? Do you remember how you made me feel so alive and free? You even teased me to rent a bicycle to explore Basco. I would have submitted to your whim if only if I knew how to ride one. (Note to self: Learn how to ride a bicycle.)
6. Because of your seemingly never-ending National Road
Your long, winding, cliff-hugging National Road, which starts at the heart of Basco and traverses several towns, serves as a long view deck and provides the best vantage point to admire the ocean and the mountains. The catchy yellow “Blow UR Horn” signs along its snaky parts and blind curves remind me of London’s “Mind the Gap” signs.
7. Because of your Camote Chips and Coconut Crabs
Your unique delicacies are to die for. Yummy. Thank you for pampering my taste buds and filling my tummy with your flavorful dishes. You were able to satisfy a Kapampangan’s picky palate.
8. Because of your indigent architecture
Your architectural materials and designs simply fascinate me. The use of locally available materials for Ivatan structures — stones, boulders, and lime for their houses, reeds and cogon for the roofs, and trunk of the bread fruit tree for their traditional locks — is truly a showcase of Ivatan ingenuity, resourcefulness, and meticulous artisanship.
9. Because of your unique and useful native products
I also adore your crafts as much as I fancy your architecture. It is with fondness that I note that your famous headgear, the vakul, and your local abaca sandals have such practical uses. Imagine my delight when you gave me those colorful rattan coin purses, ornate rattan fans, and miniature stone house ref magnets to take home as pasalubong.
10. Because of the stories behind your people and landmarks
Your stories and histories are simply enthralling. Rich narratives about Lolo Elo Hostallero of Sabtang Island and Lola Ida Estrella of the House of Dakay, of Racuh a Payaman, Sung-Sung Ruins, Fountain of Youth, Japanese Tunnel, Valugan Boulder Beach, Honesty Café, Fundacion de Pacita, Old Loran Station, Ivatan stone houses, and other places of interests satisfied my inquisitive mind. Their stories relate how these people and places are delicately woven into the colorful Ivatan history and heritage. I could retell every story by heart, but I am afraid I would not be able to give justice to them. People who would like to get to know your tales can contact one of your most eloquent storytellers, Roger Amboy (Operations Manager of Batanes Seaside Resort/ Tour Guide) through mobile number +639183331797.
11. Because of your loving people and treasured culture
Throughout all my travels, I found your people to be the warmest and most approachable hosts. Their integrity and honesty is truly admirable. Only in your islands can a concept store like Honesty Café thrive. Only in your islands can a statue of the Virgin Mary with gold crown, gold earrings, and gold rosary be displayed, unlocked and unsecured, in a church that is open 24/7. More than the usual “buhat bahay” concept, bayanihan or community spirit runs deep in your shores, from free labor to income sharing. Only in your islands, indeed. In your bosom, I see neither beggars nor squatters. I was told you will cradle and provide for your people as long as they are willing to stretch a muscle. Under your watch, indolence is a crime.
12. Because you give me more and more reasons to keep coming back
To explore the island of Itbayat, to conquer the grand Mt. Iraya, or simply to get lost into the peaceful streets of Basco…I just know I have to see you again, my love. Oh, how I long to breathe your fresh air, to taste your luscious dishes, to feel the warmth of your welcome and the chill of your winter, to hear the steady splashing of your waves, to smile back to your friendly people, to walk your streets and shorelines, to be lulled by your serenity, to see more of your enchanting and unforgettable magnificence…
For I see no reason not to, for I see no other way but to do so – I love thee, Batanes.
With all the love for wonder and lust for wander,
Aireen
Aireen Keith is a full-time government slave, part-time graduate student, concurrent grandchild/ daughter/ niece/ ward/ half sister/ adopted sibling/ aunt/ godmother, regular bookworm, permanent chocolate lover and shoe addict, co-terminus romantic, contractual procrastinator, transient city tenant, self-confessed OC, closet drama queen, resident assistant-slash-dishwasher, frustrated artist, all-out camwhore, life-long wonder-seeker, and forever dreamer and wanderer. When she is not busy with her multi-hyphenated career, she can be seen sauntering through bookstores or queuing up in cinema ticket booths.
Photos used with permission from Aireen Keith Macalalad.
